The watchmaker is targeting female clientele with its new line of Royal Oak-inspired gems—and none of them are timekeepers.
Launching today—smack in the middle of a buzzy, media-frenzied Paris Fashion Week—is the debut Royal Oak Joaillerie collection. Watch fans will instantly clock the name of Audemars Piguet’s signature timepiece, the Swiss watchmaker’s famed 1970s luxury sports watch, but in fact the collection does not feature a single watch and is an 19-piece suite of jewels, featuring necklaces, earrings, cuffs and chokers.

The new jewelry collection—set with precious and non-precious stones in gold and titanium—marks Audemars Piguet’s bold foray into luxury’s brightest and most promising sector. Anchoring the collection, as the name suggests, are the design codes of the Royal Oak, and fans will immediately recognize the signature interlocking links of the Royal Oak watch bracelet, which famously plays with light from a mix of polished and brushed finishes. The jewels riff off elements from the watchmakers Vallée de Joux’s home, from frozen lakes to local flowers, like the statement-making Dream of Joux tie-style necklace crafted in white gold and anodized blue titanium. The piece is trimmed with 42 pear-shaped diamonds of around 63 carats in total, and 1,670 blue sapphires of over five carats in total. A matching set of earrings is topped with eight pear-shaped diamonds of between 1.5 and 3 carats each, paired with 196 blue sapphires. Head-turning gemstones further come courtesy of the Risoud Eclipse necklace and cuff, named after a local forest. Cool and edgy, the blackened titanium and white gold design sparkles with noteworthy emeralds: a necklace with five sugarloaf stones of around 16.5 carats in total, and three emeralds of around 12 carats in the cuff, both pieces sprinkled with diamonds.

There are also six bejeweled cuffs that again nod to local nature. A Sunburst Royal Oak cuff is a joyful spray of orange and yellow sapphires and spessartites. Meanwhile the Blueberries Royal Oak cuff feels more literal in its shimmering depiction of a blueberry bush branch, and is meticulously crafted with 506 leaf-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, 19 amethyst cabochons, and 16 black spinel cabochons.

Finally, there is a selection of more fine jewelry-style chokers and cuffs—and which are more wearable for everyday and which will likely pair well with a client’s existing Royal Oak watch. They come in Audemars Piguet’s signature Frosted Gold finish, the subtle, shimmering hammered gold look that the watchmaker pioneered with the jeweler Carolina Bucci in 2016, and which is a coveted finish by collectors today.
While daring and slightly unexpected, a purist jewelry collection is not totally left field for Audemars Piguet. Since the 19th century, the watchmaker has created stylist pendant and ring watches in tandem with jewelers like Tiffany, Cartier, and Bulgari. In the 1980s, the house established its own jewelry workshop; it later created the likes of the jaw-dropping Baroque cuff watch for the maison’s 125th anniversary, which was set with diamonds, yellow and pink sapphires. More recently, collectors will remember the punk-style Diamond Trilogy secret watch collection from 2015-2017.

Jewelry right now is a strong bet and a notably bright spot in a muted luxury landscape. In May, Morgan Stanley reduced its growth estimate for the luxury sector to 2.5 percent in 2026, while macroeconomic uncertainty and ongoing conflict in the Middle East will only continue to dampen the outlook. Amid that, customers are increasingly forgoing fashion for jewelry, seeing the sector as an investment and embracing a “flight to quality” mode (as strong gold prices further entice purchases). No wonder jewelry is the driving engine at luxury groups like Richemont, whose jewelry maisons posted a 24 percent growth in its third quarter ending June 30 (watchmakers performed comparatively at 8 percent).

Within Audemars Piguet, the company has long tried to diversify beyond its Royal Oak icon, expanding, for example, its round-style Code 11.59 watch with new dials and complications over the years. A dedicated Royal Oak jewelry collection is now another attempt at placing their eggs in different baskets, so to speak, and could prove much more promising, actually. Setting their pieces with noteworthy emeralds and sapphires speaks to a growing trend for colored stones in jewelry, while APis clearly tapping into the potential of women who increasingly buy jewelry for themselves. Indeed, the inspiration from the Royal Oak Joaillerie collection stemmed from the house’s existing clients—namely the popularity of its 23 mm Royal Oak Mini. “We saw clients stacking and wearing them almost as jewelry, which showed us that there was a very contemporary way of living with the Royal Oak beyond the watch itself,” says Audemars Piguet’s CEO Ilaria Resta.

One senses this is just the beginning—and expects the house to expand upon Royal Oak Joaillerie with gusto, just as it did with the Royal Oak watch. “We wanted to explore that design language in a new form,” says Resta. “Rather than reproducing familiar Royal Oak codes, we looked at the bracelet almost as an object in its own right and asked how its geometry, rhythm and movement could translate into jewelry. That opens up a different creative space for us.” Hype-led, rule-breaking ideas are the Audemars Piguet modus operandi—and jewelry is set to be an exciting new canvas for that.
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