Sri Lanka has a remarkable way of packing an astonishing amount of variety into a relatively small island. Within a few hours of each other, you can move from misty mountains and tea plantations to wildlife encounters, colonial-era villas and long stretches of surf beach.
For a family travelling with young children, that variety is a gift. There is always something new around the corner, but the distances are manageable enough that the journey never becomes quite as exhausting as it looks on a map.
On a recent trip in June this summer, we travelled from Colombo to Kandy and eventually down to the south coast. What we discovered was an itinerary that offered plenty to keep the children entertained, while still leaving enough room for the adults to slow down, eat well and, occasionally, do absolutely nothing.
An easy first night in Negombo
We landed in Colombo and checked into the Heritance Negombo, just a short 15 minute drive from the airport. With Kandy on the agenda for the following day, it made little sense to add another hour in the car by heading into central Colombo that first night.
Instead, we checked in, settled down and let the holiday begin.
Sometimes, particularly when travelling with small children, the smartest travel decision is simply not to overcomplicate the first day.
Getting up close with elephants — the right way
The next morning, we set off on the roughly two-hour drive to the Elephant Freedom Project, an alternative to some of Sri Lanka’s more commercial elephant attractions, including Pinnawala.
The sanctuary is home to two rescued elephants, and the experience is deliberately small and unhurried.
The visit begins with a Sri Lankan meal and the opportunity to change into something more comfortable before heading out to meet the elephants. From there, a guide leads you on a jungle trek alongside them, where visitors can feed the elephants treats as they walk through the forest together.
The trek eventually leads down to the river, where the elephants stop for a bath. Watching them splash and play in the water was, without question, the highlight of the trip for our children.
Along the way, the guides and mahouts share fascinating insights into the elephants and the surrounding ecosystem, including a “sleeping plant” that folds its leaves the moment you touch it - much to the children’s delight.
The full experience lasts around three hours, with morning and afternoon sessions and a maximum of 16 visitors per session. We chose the afternoon slot and, rather luckily, found ourselves sharing it with only one other couple. The result was an experience that felt personal and relaxed.
A night in an 18th-century Walauwa
After showering and changing, we continued to Jetwing Wahawa Walauwa, an 18th-century villa that has been transformed into a six-room boutique hotel just thirty minutes or so from the elephant freedom project.
If you like your hotels with a sense of place, this is the sort of property that is difficult to forget. With only six rooms and a personal butler assigned to each guest, staying here feels less like checking into a hotel and more like being invited into someone’s beautifully preserved country estate.
The service is wonderfully old-fashioned in the best possible way, with a modern twist. You can message your butler on the way back from an outing, and the night before, simply let him know what you’d like for breakfast.
And then there is the pool.
Tucked away among the trees, it proved almost impossible to get our children out of. And so, the rest of the afternoon was spent swimming and relaxing at the hotel. After the morning’s activities, it was exactly the slower pace we needed.
The scenic road to Kandy
The following morning, we set off towards Kandy, but rather than treating the journey as something to get through, we made a day of it.
Our first stop was, unexpectedly, a poo paper factory.
Yes, elephant poo paper.
Here, visitors get a first-hand look at how elephant dung is processed and turned into paper, with everything from notebooks to cards and souvenirs available to buy. It is an unusual stop, but also a genuinely fascinating one - and, unsurprisingly, a big hit with the children.
We were also lucky enough to see a herd of elephants walking right past us as they made their way back to their orphanage after bathing in the river.
The journey continued with a stop at a tea manufacturing plant, followed by a traditional cultural show. The show, complete with acrobats and fire-walking, was particularly impressive to our four-year-old.
There were plenty of little stops along the way, from spotting monkeys by the roadside to stopping for snacks and taking in the changing scenery as we made our way towards Kandy.
With young children, the breaks also made the drive much more manageable and meant we could take our time rather than trying to get from one place to the next as quickly as possible.
Colombo, this time on purpose
After Kandy, we returned to Colombo, staying at the Hilton in the city centre.
This was primarily a practical overnight stop to break up the journey south, but the location made it easy to explore a little. The hotel is close to a shopping mall and several of Colombo’s attractions, including the striking red Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, more than a century old and one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks.
After the slower pace of the countryside, Colombo provided a brief change of scenery before we continued south.
Weligama: where the holiday slows down
The final leg of our journey took us to Weligama, a laid-back surf town on Sri Lanka’s south coast. We stayed at a resort overlooking the surfers’ beach, where the waves are impressive and surf lessons are readily available for anyone tempted to give it a try.
But Weligama is also a good base for exploring the surrounding coast. One of our day trips took us to Galle, the historic coastal city first built by the Portuguese in 1588 and later expanded by the Dutch in the 17th century.
Galle Fort is the sort of place best explored without much of a plan. Its narrow streets are lined with cafes, small shops and beautifully preserved buildings, and it is easy to spend an afternoon wandering around, stopping whenever something catches your eye.
There was plenty we left for another trip too — the tea country around Nuwara Eliya and Ella, the famous train journey through the hills, a safari in Yala or Udawalawe, or a visit to Sigiriya. We also didn’t make it to the gem markets or try whale watching off the southern coast.
And perhaps that is what makes Sri Lanka such an appealing destination. You can shape the trip around the kind of traveller you are, whether you want to fill your days with adventure and exploration or take things at a slower pace. For us, travelling with young children, it was about seeing and experiencing as much as we could while still having time to relax and enjoy the summer.
There is something for everyone in Sri Lanka — and, importantly, you don’t have to do it all. The trick is deciding what kind of trip you want to have.
Sri Lanka has a remarkable way of packing an astonishing amount of variety into a relatively small island. Within a few hours of each other, you can move from misty mountains and tea plantations to wildlife encounters, colonial-era villas and long stretches of surf beach.
For a family travelling with young children, that variety is a gift. There is always something new around the corner, but the distances are manageable enough that the journey never becomes quite as exhausting as it looks on a map.
On a recent trip in June this summer, we travelled from Colombo to Kandy and eventually down to the south coast. What we discovered was an itinerary that offered plenty to keep the children entertained, while still leaving enough room for the adults to slow down, eat well and, occasionally, do absolutely nothing.
An easy first night in Negombo
We landed in Colombo and checked into the Heritance Negombo, just a short 15 minute drive from the airport. With Kandy on the agenda for the following day, it made little sense to add another hour in the car by heading into central Colombo that first night.
Instead, we checked in, settled down and let the holiday begin.
Sometimes, particularly when travelling with small children, the smartest travel decision is simply not to overcomplicate the first day.
Getting up close with elephants — the right way
The next morning, we set off on the roughly two-hour drive to the Elephant Freedom Project, an alternative to some of Sri Lanka’s more commercial elephant attractions, including Pinnawala.
The sanctuary is home to two rescued elephants, and the experience is deliberately small and unhurried.
The visit begins with a Sri Lankan meal and the opportunity to change into something more comfortable before heading out to meet the elephants. From there, a guide leads you on a jungle trek alongside them, where visitors can feed the elephants treats as they walk through the forest together.
The trek eventually leads down to the river, where the elephants stop for a bath. Watching them splash and play in the water was, without question, the highlight of the trip for our children.
Along the way, the guides and mahouts share fascinating insights into the elephants and the surrounding ecosystem, including a “sleeping plant” that folds its leaves the moment you touch it - much to the children’s delight.
The full experience lasts around three hours, with morning and afternoon sessions and a maximum of 16 visitors per session. We chose the afternoon slot and, rather luckily, found ourselves sharing it with only one other couple. The result was an experience that felt personal and relaxed.
A night in an 18th-century Walauwa
After showering and changing, we continued to Jetwing Wahawa Walauwa, an 18th-century villa that has been transformed into a six-room boutique hotel just thirty minutes or so from the elephant freedom project.
If you like your hotels with a sense of place, this is the sort of property that is difficult to forget. With only six rooms and a personal butler assigned to each guest, staying here feels less like checking into a hotel and more like being invited into someone’s beautifully preserved country estate.
The service is wonderfully old-fashioned in the best possible way, with a modern twist. You can message your butler on the way back from an outing, and the night before, simply let him know what you’d like for breakfast.
And then there is the pool.
Tucked away among the trees, it proved almost impossible to get our children out of. And so, the rest of the afternoon was spent swimming and relaxing at the hotel. After the morning’s activities, it was exactly the slower pace we needed.
The scenic road to Kandy
The following morning, we set off towards Kandy, but rather than treating the journey as something to get through, we made a day of it.
Our first stop was, unexpectedly, a poo paper factory.
Yes, elephant poo paper.
Here, visitors get a first-hand look at how elephant dung is processed and turned into paper, with everything from notebooks to cards and souvenirs available to buy. It is an unusual stop, but also a genuinely fascinating one - and, unsurprisingly, a big hit with the children.
We were also lucky enough to see a herd of elephants walking right past us as they made their way back to their orphanage after bathing in the river.
The journey continued with a stop at a tea manufacturing plant, followed by a traditional cultural show. The show, complete with acrobats and fire-walking, was particularly impressive to our four-year-old.
There were plenty of little stops along the way, from spotting monkeys by the roadside to stopping for snacks and taking in the changing scenery as we made our way towards Kandy.
With young children, the breaks also made the drive much more manageable and meant we could take our time rather than trying to get from one place to the next as quickly as possible.
Colombo, this time on purpose
After Kandy, we returned to Colombo, staying at the Hilton in the city centre.
This was primarily a practical overnight stop to break up the journey south, but the location made it easy to explore a little. The hotel is close to a shopping mall and several of Colombo’s attractions, including the striking red Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, more than a century old and one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks.
After the slower pace of the countryside, Colombo provided a brief change of scenery before we continued south.
Weligama: where the holiday slows down
The final leg of our journey took us to Weligama, a laid-back surf town on Sri Lanka’s south coast. We stayed at a resort overlooking the surfers’ beach, where the waves are impressive and surf lessons are readily available for anyone tempted to give it a try.
But Weligama is also a good base for exploring the surrounding coast. One of our day trips took us to Galle, the historic coastal city first built by the Portuguese in 1588 and later expanded by the Dutch in the 17th century.
Galle Fort is the sort of place best explored without much of a plan. Its narrow streets are lined with cafes, small shops and beautifully preserved buildings, and it is easy to spend an afternoon wandering around, stopping whenever something catches your eye.
There was plenty we left for another trip too — the tea country around Nuwara Eliya and Ella, the famous train journey through the hills, a safari in Yala or Udawalawe, or a visit to Sigiriya. We also didn’t make it to the gem markets or try whale watching off the southern coast.
And perhaps that is what makes Sri Lanka such an appealing destination. You can shape the trip around the kind of traveller you are, whether you want to fill your days with adventure and exploration or take things at a slower pace. For us, travelling with young children, it was about seeing and experiencing as much as we could while still having time to relax and enjoy the summer.
There is something for everyone in Sri Lanka — and, importantly, you don’t have to do it all. The trick is deciding what kind of trip you want to have.
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