Consumers need to understand wildfire smoke better, how it affects wine, and ultimately your buying decisions.

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Given what we know now about wildfire smoke taint, it will almost certainly be an issue in parts of the Okanagan in 2026 because of the Bald Range wildfire near Summerland and possibly other events farther north and south.

For the casual wine drinker, smoke taint is a quality issue, not a food safety issue. In an age of more frequent wildfires, wineries face complicated decisions. Those with resources might only release smoke-free wines to the market. Others may have no choice but to try to mitigate the smoke as much as possible to retain revenue, shelf space, and stay in business. All of which means consumers need to understand wildfire smoke better, how it affects wine, and ultimately your buying decisions.

I bring this up because recent social media posts by local wine growers suggest that several wineries testing for smoke taint are getting disappointing results. It certainly looks like the 2026 vintage could be a write-off for some Summerland producers and others that endured heavy smoke. Now, before you write off the season, interior vineyards span nearly 200 kilometres throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. Not all will be unaffected because the proximity and intensity of the fire almost always determine the impact of smoke. So be careful about what you hear, read, and comment on.

What should you know about smoke taint? Well, it isn’t caused by burnt grapes. The taint comes from smoke compounds that penetrate the grape’s skin and get trapped inside otherwise healthy fruit. A decade ago, you may have heard reports from wineries that, after returning home to their properties, their vineyards and grapes looked healthy, and the harvest was on. It’s not the case today. We now know smoke damage manifests itself in a much more complex manner.

The grapes are most vulnerable to smoke taint during veraison (when the grapes soften and change colour) and post-veraison, and the issue isn’t faint smoke in the atmosphere but smoke descending on the vines from nearby wildfires. That’s what made the timing of the Bald Range wildfire so bad because many vineyards were near or going through veraison.

The truth is, wineries no longer guess or hope for the best; they test. In the Okanagan, wineries can sample a vineyard multiple times before harvest. Wineries send grapes to specialized laboratories to measure smoke-related compounds. Many wineries also run mini trial fermentations to see whether lab results translate into detectable sensory impacts.

The 2015 and 2021 years were tough for smoke in B.C., and a number of those wines slipped through to market. When you smell a wine with smoke taint, key markers include ashtray, campfire, burnt wood, or my favourite, stale fireplace. On the palate, most of the action is restricted to the finish, where cigarette ash and bitter, sometimes acrid notes obliterate any fruit flavours.

Oak can add a toasted character, but it usually comes with more pleasant notes of vanilla, clove, cedar, char, or barbecue spice. Interestingly, oak toast is the same aromatic compound measured for smoke taint. So, in small amounts, smoke taint can add desirable complexity, or at least isn’t negative. It is a thin lining, but perhaps a silver one for some.

Keep in mind that wineries can mitigate some smoke-related issues, especially in white wines pressed quickly off their skins. If smoke markers are low, affected lots may be blended into larger cuvées to dilute the impact. More aggressive interventions are possible, but most have proved limited in removing smoke character entirely — hence the taint.

The encouraging news is that researchers have identified the key smoke compounds and are moving quickly toward remedies that can clean up affected wines without stripping away the wine’s character. For this harvest, all we can ask is that everyone involved be transparent about their situation and refrain from bottling anything that could hurt their image or the image of B.C. wines.

It’s a big ask, and it comes on the heels of the pandemic and two big freeze events. Farming is not for the faint of heart.

Moraine Chardonnay 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

$26.49 | 89/100

UPC: 626990127796

Moraine is back with a post-freeze Chardonnay in 2025. It has a much more floral upfront presence, with a mineral wet stone scent on a warm day. Fresh citrus and a hazelnut mid-palate lead to a brioche finish. It’s full flavoured and wide, and while it lacks precision, it has a big wow factor in the mouth. Ready to drink. Think about serving this with buttered clams or Cacio e Pepe. Drink or hold through 2027. Good value.

JoieFarm Rosé 2025, Okanagan Valley
$29.99 | 91/100

UPC: 00692739000026

Joie has long been one of B.C.’s Rosé specialists, and the Pinot-Gamay blend remains a house signature. Expect fragrant strawberry, cherry and watermelon supported by bright acidity and a silky texture. Elegant, energetic, and endlessly drinkable, this remains a benchmark for B.C. Rosé.

1 Mill Road Pinot Noir Rosé 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$38 | 93/100

UPC: 628942298691

I’m late to the party on this wine, and I regret not getting there sooner. This 100 per cent Pinot Noir is as delicious as any Provençal Rosé I have had, often better. But to be fair, Provence is not Pinot Noir country. At 1 Mill farms, there are  two Pinot sites on the Naramata Bench: Black Pine Vineyard and Cronie Family Vineyard. The colour is pink perfection; the nose evokes a Provençal garden party. The palate is elegant; the fruit is pure, with only a touch of used oak for texture. It is still available on the website for $228 for a six-pack. We highly recommend it.

Lakeboat Pinot Noir 2023, Kaleden, Okanagan Valley
$29.95 | 88/100

UPC: 696852078610

The 2023 Lakeboat Pinot Noir comes from Kaleden, just south of Penticton on the west shore of Skaha Lake. The early morning sun and late day shade create ideal conditions for the grapes to develop slowly and gracefully, and this wine reflects that. Strawberries with a hint of vanilla and soft, silky tannins are the story of this highly drinkable and affordable Pinot. Lakeboat is owned by Tara Mathison, who originally purchased an older house in Kaleden, surrounded by the vineyard of Topshelf Winery, which was also for sale.

Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2022, Okanagan Valley
$31.99 | 91/100

UPC: 776545995117

When it comes to consistency, the Mission Hill Reserve Series is the poster child. The secret to success is simple. They do not cut corners, delivering quality and value in every bottle. The ’22 Reserve Merlot was grown in two South Okanagan estate vineyards in Osoyoos and Oliver. On the nose, the aromas are rich and compact, with wild blackberry, red plums dusted with cedar, and chocolate. The flavours are full, and the texture is soft. The finish is long, complete with dense, sweet tannins. It is still just a baby, but this excellent Merlot is one you can cellar with ease.

Phantom Creek Estates Pinot Gris 2025, Okanagan Valley

$31.99 | 93/100

UPC: 628069990492

The deep freeze may have set back the Pinot Gris vines at the Evernden Springs Vineyard in the Similkameen, but it hasn’t affected the work of Olivier Humbrecht, the legendary Alsace winemaker and biodynamic guru, who serves as the consulting white winemaker at Phantom Creek. The 2025 is sourced from Okanagan Valley sites. It spends five months in 64 per cent oak foudres and 36 per cent stainless steel tanks, which did nothing to stunt its expression. It offers honeysuckle, pear, ripe peach, and sweet lemon, finishing long and persistent, with a touch of croissant that takes us to Alsace in the final moments. Impressive, to say the least.

Blue Mountain Estate Cuvée Pinot Blanc 2025, Okanagan Valley

$24.99 | 91/100

UPC: 626452101227

Last time out, we wrote, “someday, Pinot Blanc will find its audience, but for now, it remains a wine for the cognoscenti who see it for what it is: a hugely undervalued white wine with its own story to tell.” Not much has changed, though the massive shift toward white wine isn’t hurting. At 40 years old, the Blue Mountain vines are adding more texture and mouth feel to this standout Pinot Blanc. Crisp and clean, it’s packed with orchard stone fruits and white flowers, hinting at a round, creamy, spicy finish. There’s plenty of minerality and value here. If you haven’t tried Pinot Blanc, make this your first.

Tickets are now available for the Whistler Wine Walk, inviting guests to explore the resort’s gallery scene and enjoy guided tours, B.C. wines, chocolate pairings, and interactive art activities every Friday in October. In 2026, the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre will join for one night only, Oct. 9, highlighting Indigenous cultures, with Nk’Mip Cellars featured. This year, chocolate pairings and non-alcoholic wine will be added weekly. The walk offers four guided routes with three gallery stops and B.C. wine at each, ending at the Audain Art Museum for canapés, music, and a tour of the exhibit Solstice: Through Storm & Stillness. Other participating venues include Adele Campbell Fine Art Gallery, Mountain Galleries at the Fairmont, The Plaza Galleries, and Whistler Contemporary Gallery, with B.C. wineries like Fort Berens, Kismet, 8th Generation, and Lightning Rock. The event runs from 6-8:15 p.m. on Oct. 2, 9, 16, 23, and 30. Tickets cost $29 plus tax at whistler.com/events. Early purchase is recommended, as they often sell out.

Drinks Business reported that a Sonoma County winery has replaced an acre of Zinfandel vines with over 3,000 sunflowers, reflecting California’s wine industry’s ongoing challenges with oversupply and shifting consumer preferences. Chateau Diana says the change aims to draw visitors and diversify its offerings amid rising vineyard removals across Wine Country. Instead of leaving the land idle, the family-owned winery planted more than 3,000 sunflowers, with pumpkins planned as another seasonal draw. Manning noted that attracting visitors has become increasingly vital to their business.