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Friday 31 July 2026 16:30 BST
The pretty Polish seaside towns nestled against Russias dagger.
On the shores of the Vistula Spit in northern Poland, global travel editor Annabel Grossman discovers an unlikely holiday destination with golden beaches, nature-filled trails and low prices.
Line in the sand: The border between Poland and Kaliningrad Oblast, an exclave of Russia (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)
Its hard to believe Im in Poland. The powdery golden sand, sharp blue skies, waves softly lapping at the shore, and softly rising dunes are nothing like the drab, grey shoreline I anticipated when planning an off-season trip in central Europe.
Im reminded of the beaches of the American northeast the shores of the Outer Banks in South Carolina or even Long Island beaches in the Hamptons. I am, in fact, strolling along the Vistula Spit, a thin piece of land stretching out into the Baltic Sea in northern Poland, with the Vistula Lagoon on one side and Gdansk Bay on the other. Just a few hundred metres at its thinnest point, the Polish side of this sandbar ends abruptly around halfway along the spit, at which point the land runs into Russian territory.
Despite its location rubbing up against a hostile neighbour, this pretty stretch of shoreline is proving itself to be a tranquil little haven.
Krynica Morska, the largest town on the spit, had a slightly eerie air to it the previous evening when Id arrived in town in the fading light of late March. Driving past the pier with its fairground rides half-covered in tarpaulin and weaving my way through streets of shuttered hotels, Krynica Morska felt ghostly, almost abandoned.
The next morning is a different story. At 7am, gulls swoop among the sand dunes through the early light, while roe deer roam among the pine forest that lines the beaches. Even out of the tourist season, there are a handful of people enjoying the shoreline, including a couple laughing as they play in the waves.
Krynica Morska which sits in the Pomorskie region of northern Poland, thats also home to the port cities of Gdansk, Gdynia and Sopot comes to life in summer with families from across Poland (and the odd international visitor) taking advantage of the pretty seaside. In a few months, these sands where Im standing will be filled with picnicking families, colourful windbreakers and friends playing music.
The town welcomes thousands of tourists a week during the summer season, swelling its year-round population of 1,300 significantly, but the vast majority of these are Polish visitors. Despite the popularity of Poland for city breaks, UK visitors havent yet discovered the charms of this seaside resort: compared to the hundreds of thousands of foreign visitors that spend a few days in Krakow or Gdansk every year, a fraction of this number will enjoy a break in Krynica Morska each summer.
Koniec Świata (the end of the world) cafe in Piaski, closed until summer, when tourists will make their way to the area (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)
Even compared to the low prices that Brits enjoy in Polish cities, a holiday on the Vistula Spit is cheap. In March (with temperatures dropping to 5C), the simple one-bed wooden chalet I rented in a holiday park near the beach barely set me back £60 a night, and even at the height of peak season (July-August) its still a very reasonable £221.
Some 10km to the east of Krynica Morska, passing through pretty woodland, you reach the smaller town of Piaski, nestled right up against the border of the Kaliningrad Oblast. This 15,100 square kilometre oblast (roughly the size of Yorkshire or half the size of Belgium), with a population of around one million, is a Russian exclave sandwiched between Poland to the south and Lithuania to the north and east. Its completely cut off from the Russian mainland (you would need to pass through a EU member to reach it), but it is of significant strategic importance to Moscow as it is home to the Baltic fleet and provides Russias only year-round, ice-free access to the Baltic Sea; the oblasts positioning means that in the past it has been described as a dagger pointing at the heart of Europe.
The looming spectre of Russia hangs heavy over Poland, a country that still bears painful memories of the USSR and shares a border with Ukraine, yet the fact that Piaski sits so close to Russia barely seems of note.
Walk from Piaski to the Kaliningrad border with Russia (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)
In contrast to the restaurants and fairground rides of Krynica Morska, here in Piaski, the focus is on nature. Fishing is popular in seas that are rich with flounder, herring and turbot, and the sandbar sits on several migratory routes, meaning theres a diverse array of birdlife. In the village, theres a cafe called Koniec Świata (the end of the world a nod to its location) thats closed until summer, a childrens playground, a few hotels and a couple of restaurants, also shuttered until the tourist season starts.
The most beautiful part of this beach is the stretch by the border. Its reached by a peaceful walk from the town, around 5km through woodland with the white beaches to the north of the spit and marshland reaching to the lagoon in the south. The border itself is marked by some raggedy wire fencing that has been weathered down, and a couple of Stop signs, plus a rather weary sign that warns tourists they risk imprisonment of up to three years or a fine by stepping over the border.
The Polish side has scattered footprints in the sand; the Russian side has no sign of activity just untouched white-gold sand stretching into the distance. Perhaps an unlikely spot for a European beach break, but with golden beaches, low prices and nature-filled trails, it might not be too long until the international crowds catch on.
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31 July 2026 18:00
Pictured: Smoke billows near Wildberries warehouse in Volgograd.
A drone attack set ablaze an energy facility and warehouses in Russia's Volgograd region on Friday, injuring five, the regional governor, Andrei Bocharov, said, but stopped short of giving details of the facilities.
The region is home to a Lukoil-owned oil refinery. Five people are seeking medical help after the attacks, Bocharov added on Telegram.
Top online retailer Wildberries said in a Telegram statement that one of its logistic hubs in the city of Volgograd caught fire following the attack, but there were no injuries.
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31 July 2026 17:00
Russian e-commerce giant forced to evacuate warehouse over Ukrainian drone alert.
Russia's second-largest e-commerce company, Ozon, says it has been forced to evacuate its warehouse in the town of Zelenodolsk in the Tatarstan region due to a Ukrainian drone alert.
The evacuation took just a few minutes to complete and there were no casualties. The logistics centre was undamaged and has since resumed operations, the company said.
Video showed a plume of white smoke rising next to a blue-coloured Ozon warehouse. Another unverified video posted on social media showed warehouse workers hurrying out of an Ozon warehouse and watching as a drone crashed into the ground some distance away with a loud explosion.
Ukraine has attacked at least a dozen warehouses belonging to Ozon's main rival, Wildberries, since July 18 in a bid to disrupt the operations of the company, a linchpin in Russia's consumer economy.
Ozon and Wildberries warehouses are located next to each other in many locations - including Zelenodolsk - and it was not clear on Friday which of the warehouses Ukraine was targeting.
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Thu 30 Jul 2026 06.00 BST
Lenin was an enemy of humanity: Why Kyiv wants to put Cossack chief statue in place of Soviet leader.
Removal of Soviet-era statues sped up when Russia seized Crimea in 2014, and since Putins 2022 invasion has moved at pace as Ukrainians question their identity.
Since 2013 the plinth at the bottom of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard in Kyiv has been eerily empty. The scruffy monument is daubed in white paint and graffiti. Someone has stuck a Ukrainian trident where Lenin once stood, gazing down during the years of Soviet communism. A crowd toppled the sculpture during Ukraines Maidan revolution, which ousted the pro-Russian government, and smashed it with sledgehammers.
In June, Volodymyr Zelenskyy proposed putting a new figure on the plinth: Ivan Mazepa, a Cossack military and political leader, who broke with Moscow and fought for Ukraines independence. I am certain that where Lenin fell, Mazepa will stand firm, Zelenskyy said. He spoke next to a bust of Mazepa in the Pechersk Lavra, an ancient Kyiv monastery hit by Russian missiles.
The proposed swap of Lenin for Mazepa has triggered a lively debate about monuments and what they say about changing national identity. After winning independence in 1991, Ukraine removed large numbers of Soviet-era statues and renamed streets as part of decommunisation. The process sped up in 2014 when Russia seized Crimea and fighting began in the Donbas, and moved even faster after Vladimir Putins 2022 full-scale invasion that aimed to scrub Ukraine from Europes map.
Nataliia Kryvda, a professor of the history of culture at Taras Shevchenko National University in Kyiv, said Ukraine was going through an unfinished period of decolonisation. The USSR absorbed national cultures. It tried to make a single nation of Soviet citizens. Russia today looks at Ukraine and says we are one people. It isnt true. We have our own mindset, historical destiny, beliefs and dreams. Our identity is a dynamic process, she said.
Standing next to the ex-Lenin plinth, Kryvda said she was in favour of a Mazepa monument. Why not? Hes our leader. Each culture needs to mark its space with memorials. They objectify memory, she said. She described Mazepa as a contradictory personality and not an ideal hero.
He really was a friend and political partner of Russia, right up until the moment he dramatically changed his life and history, she added.
As hetman, or head, of Cossack Ukraine, Mazepa sought to balance the demands of neighbouring Moscow and Warsaw. In 1708, the Russian emperor Peter the Great refused to protect Ukrainian territory from invading Swedes. Mazepa abandoned the tsar and formed an alliance with the Swedish King Charles XII, an act that ended in defeat and led the Bolsheviks to call modern Ukrainian patriots Mazepists.
Mazepa was the architect of European Ukraine, Kryvda said.
In his speech at the Pechersk Lavra, Zelenskyy said Russia had smeared Mazepa for centuries, depicting him as a traitor. Their goal, he said, was to make Ukrainians view their own history through the eyes of others.
Alim Aliev, a writer and Crimean Tatar campaigner, said Ukraine was belatedly recovering its identity. We are reclaiming our own voices and names, he said. He cited the example of the 20th-century Ukrainian poet and dissident Vasyl Stus, whose image will appear in September on a new 2,000 Hryvnia note. Stus studied in Donetsk, the eastern Donbas city occupied by Russia, and led Ukraines national revival. He died in 1985 in a Soviet prison camp.
In Alievs view, Ukraine was now speaking about its past without mediators and said it was appropriate that statues of the 19th-century Russian poet Pushkin had been taken down across the country. He had a totally imperial view of Crimea, Aliev said, citing Pushkins narrative poem, The Fountain of Bakhchisarai. He exoticises Crimean Tatars and describes us from a colonial perspective. Of the Mazepa statue, he added: I dont think its a controversial idea.
Last month workmen took away a monument to another Russian literary giant Mikhail Bulgakov. It had stood since 2007 outside the house where Bulgakov lived, in one of Kyivs most attractive streets, St Andrews Descent. Kyivs city council voted to remove it. Other plaques to Bulgakov, born in Kyiv to a Russian family when it was part of the Russian empire, have already been taken down, including one outside the university where he studied medicine. Bulgakovs museum housed in the writers home remains open.
The museums director, Liudmyla Habianuri, said she was not opposed to the sculptures removal and dismissed a petition to keep it as bland. She acknowledged that Bulgakov had written negatively about Ukrainian nationalist forces in his Kyiv novel The White Guard, set in the winter of 1918-19, amid revolution and war. She stressed, however: Bulgakov was a witness to his times. And a satirist. He didnt like anybody. That included communists and priests.
Habianuri said Russias war had prompted Ukrainians to ask: Who am I? Its a very painful question, she said. If I speak Russian and watch Russian films and the Russians are killing me then I must give all that up. Then Im Ukrainian. And if Im Ukrainian, I must become Ukrainian as quickly as possible.
This has led people to join the struggle for identity, she said, either via social media or by attacking monuments.
Bulgakov, she said, was a frequent subject of such struggles. Right now there is a table with only two columns: plus or minus. As a Russian, who didnt write from the perspective of Ukraines defenders, Bulgakov cant get a plus sign.
Habianuri said a process of simplification was under way but was delighted when demonstrators pulled down the Lenin statue, saying: The man was an enemy of humanity itself. Mazepa, she said, was a unique person who had inspired a notable poem by Lord Byron. But she questioned whether the plinth was a fitting spot for a memorial.
I understand its a quick jab at Russia. But its not the right place for a hero, she said. The Germans hanged people there during the second world war.
Unlike Lenin, the Bulgakov statue was carefully packed up and returned to the family of its late sculptor, Mykola Rapay. His daughter, Kateryna, declined a request from the Guardian for the work to be photographed at its new location. She said she had given official guarantees that the monument would remain out of public space.
These are not my whims, she said. The sculpture is not my property. I am the guarantor of its preservation.
Over at the Pechersk Lavra tourists walked past the new Mazepa bust, which has been erected in front of a fountain and a pleasant shady garden. It sits next to the complexs 11th-century Dormition Cathedral, used in medieval times for the burial of prominent figures. Last week a boy photographed his father next to the new monument.
Mazepa, a patron of the arts, donated money to pay for the cathedrals baroque renovation. In June, a Russian drone crashed into its roof, causing a fire, and blackening external pictures of saints. Other icons and religious artefacts were rescued.
One Ukrainian visitor, Olena Polishchuk, said she had come to the Lavra from the UK, where she has lived since Putins big invasion. What did she think of Mazepa? Hes a famous man. Im glad hes being commemorated. Hes an important part of our history, she said.
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